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Pre-Pinot Grigio, This Wine Was the Chic Italian White. Is It Time to Give Gavi Another Try?The sprightly 2023 Marchesi di Barolo Gavi ($14) was fairly light-bodied, a very pleasant aperitif, whereas the 2023 Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi ($19) was richer, more concentrated, higher in ...
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